At the beginning of the 20th century, the Balearic Islands had nearly 370,000 inhabitants. Of these, about 300,000 lived in Mallorca and about 100,000 were gathered in Palma. They were one of the communities with the highest illiteracy rate. 77% of the population could neither read nor write – in the case of women, the figure was higher. It was from 1926 onwards, with the dictatorship of Primo de Rivera, that a plan for the construction of educational infrastructure was devised to reverse the situation. The majority of those that existed at the time occupied old buildings reused as schools and had pitiful conditions of light and sanitation.

At 82 years old, Joan Pons Gost from sa Pobla looks at the calluses on his hands and reviews his five decades working as a stonemason. “I learned the trade in 1957, at 13 years old. I had lost my father when I was very young, and to help the family economy, I started as a laborer in different renovations that were being done within the same municipality of sa Pobla. With a cart, they sent me up and down to fetch material. Later they taught me how to make cement and lay blocks.”

For 60 years, the gigantic tower of a cement factory has presided over the heart of Raiguer, at the foot of the Tramuntana mountain range. The emblematic industrial complex of Lloseta recalls the smoky nuclear power plant of Springfield, where the character of Homer from the mythical animated series The Simpsons works. The inauguration of the infrastructure in August 1966 was celebrated as a great milestone of progress. The same had happened in 1958 with the commissioning of the Alcanada (Alcúdia) thermal power plant, with which Gesa brought electricity to a large part of Mallorca – in 1981 it would be taken over by the Murterar plant, located about 10 kilometers away, near l'Albufera.

The paradigm shift that the tourism boom caused in Spanish agrarian society is reflected in the film El turismo es un gran invento (1968). Its protagonist (Paco Martínez Soria) is the mayor of a small Aragonese village who wants to turn the municipality into a large modern tourist center. His role model is Marbella, where he travels with his secretary (José Luis López Vázquez) to take notes. Both are amazed not only by the bikini-clad Swedish women, but also by the monumental hotels on the Andalusian coast, the great icon of progress at the time.

In Mallorca, one of the great allies of the boom of tourism were the so-called tourist songs. The lyrics praised the island's scenic wonders. The seed was already sown in the 40s of the 20th century by the Majorcan musician Pere Bonet Mir (1917-2002), better known as Bonet de Sant Pere and professionally Bonet de San Pedro. In the midst of the post-war period, in the song Bajo el cielo de Palma, he proclaimed to the four winds “paisajes lindos tiene Mallorca”. He would deal with the same theme in Un viejo hogar en la isla, Juntito al mar, Cala d’Or, and Canto a Mallorca. These utterly naive compositions contrasted with the famous song Raska-yú, which in 1943 the island artist wrote as a parody of death in times of great misery (Franco's regime even censored it, suspecting it contained an implicit criticism of the dictatorship).

The beginnings of humanity were marked by the Sun. People worked 'from sunrise to sunset' to earn a living, a word that derives from the Latin adjective 'diurnus' ('daily'). As they became sedentary, various ancient cultures set out to follow the movements of the king of the stars in order to organize themselves better. They did this by measuring their shadows with a stick stuck in the ground. In Greek, this stick would be known as a gnomon, from which comes the term 'gnomonics', the art of building sundials. Thus began the process of domesticating time. For us, that astronomical invention would arrive with the name of clock also from another Greek word, 'horológion' ('hour indicator').

When you ask AI to create a drawing about Mallorca 50 years from now, the result is a polluted island full of buildings, much like Hong Kong. In 1978, when only natural intelligence existed, this same scenario was already described by the Palma-based cartoonist Pere Joan Riera, better known as Pere Joan. “I–he recalls today in his seventies–was 22 years old and still studying in Barcelona. One day Basilio Baltasar came to see me. He was one of the leaders of the anarcho-ecological formation Terra i Llibertat, which the previous summer, in July 1977, had occupied the small island of Dragonera near Andratx to prevent its development. He asked me for a poster that would reflect the direction Mallorca would take if the construction fever, initiated with the boom of tourism, was not stopped”.

Tomeu Penya, 77, speaks candidly to ARA Balears: “I want my current state of mind to be very clear. I am very sad. As a young man, I would never have imagined that Mallorca's future would be like it is now, an island full of cement and tourists, with saturated roads and residents who cannot afford housing. For this summer's concerts, I'm considering singing ‘Trenc’ again, which I dedicated four decades ago to the emblematic beach of Campos that now, unfortunately, is once again under threat”. ‘Trenc’ was the debut of the country singer from Vilafranca as an environmental activist at 35 years old. It is one of the most outstanding songs from his third album Coverbos (1984).

In the Balearic Islands, the Civil War is full of small great stories that would deserve a good film. One is the odyssey starring the Mahón musician Deseado Mercadal Bagur. The Alicante journalist Tomás Andújar, delegate of the Efe agency in the Archipelago, has just rescued him from oblivion in the book "Water is running out. The exile of Deseado Mercadal, edited by Dolmen. He has done it based on the testimony of Celeste, the granddaughter of the Minorcan, and on the two books she wrote years after returning to her island: I was in Kenadza: nine years of exile (1983) and The Civil War in Menorca 1936-1939: historical account of a witness (1994).

At the beginning of 2011, the 26-year-old graphic designer from Palma, Jaume Vich, was in charge of coordinating the successful lipdub campaign ‘Mallorca m’agrada’ by Obra Cultural Balear (OCB). Back in 2008, the entity had launched the ‘Cafè per la Llengua’ campaign with well-known faces such as that of tennis player Rafel Nadal. According to the official statement, the new initiative aimed to “promote the moral rearmament of people who love Mallorca”. Many towns became involved in the creation of collective videos that claimed their own identity elements. In June, that boost of self-esteem would turn into frustration. The popular José Ramón Bauzá won the regional elections. His four-year term would be characterized by a clearly hostile attitude towards the Catalan language and culture.

In the Mallorca of late Francoism, the revolution began in La Calatrava, a small neighborhood of Palma located between the cathedral and the Baluard del Príncep. Antoni Rotger Martínez was its alma mater. “I no longer recognize – he laments at 80 years old – the streets where I grew up and played with other children. There are tourists everywhere and, because of gentrification, many of my former comrades in struggle have had to leave. This was a rundown, working-class neighborhood, and now it is prey to the real estate speculation that the entire island suffers from”. In 1975, this man from Calatrava, of the 'pedra picada' style, was 32 years old and, with Franco agonizing, he already led the neighborhood mobilization against the construction of a large parking lot for tourist coaches in front of the Cathedral. The cry of protest was ‘Park YES, parking NO’. Due to that pressure, in May 1976 the City Council rectified and gave way to a competition of ideas for the design of the current Parc de la Mar, which was inaugurated in 1984.

It has been a long time since the Balearic Islands became a consumer postcard. At Palma airport, you can find a 'clever' advertisement from a car rental company that says: 'It’s pronounced ‘MA-YOUR-CAR’’. Three weeks ago, on the facade of the complex, there was also a giant advertising banner from the German financial group Sparkassen-Finanzgruppe. It promoted Wero, an instant payment application similar to Bizum. The slogan used had a double meaning: 'Was auf Malle passiert, wird auf Malle beglichen’ (‘what happens in Mallorca, is settled in Mallorca’). The phrase refers to the famous slogan of the US 'sin city': 'what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas'. 'Malle’, the substitute for Vegas, is a very common colloquial term in Germany to refer to Mallorca as an emblem of excess tourism.

A ntoni Gaudí Cornet, born in Reus in 1852, found in nature his main source of inspiration. “Originality consists in returning to the origin,” he used to say. At the end of the 19th century, the muses led him to Mallorca. He did so as a member of the Catalan Association of Scientific Excursions, founded in 1876. The entity used to organize trips to the island, then famous for its unspoiled landscapes. The man from Reus was particularly struck by the Caves of Artà and the Caves of Drach (Manacor). This is assured by the Japanese researcher Tokutoshi Torii in a work titled Mallorca in Gaudí's works – it was published in 2002 within the framework of international conferences on Gaudí studies.

During the boom of tourism, there were Swedes who did not get discouraged. Some tried to dissuade their compatriots from going on vacation to a country that was a dictatorship and that, with the economic support of the USA, had made tourism its salvation. The most activist ones demonstrated with slogans such as 'Boycott trips to Spain!' and 'Trips to Mallorca are a disgrace'. From other countries, these protests would also be supported by Spanish anarchists in exile organized around Defensa Interior (DI). Coordinating the entity was the native of Menorca Octavi Alberola Surinach (1928-2025).

Between 1960 and 1980, in just two decades, the population of Palma doubled. It went from 150,000 inhabitants to 300,000. The tourist boom, with its epicenter in l'Arenal, turned the Balearic capital into a kind of promised land not only for peninsulars, especially from Andalusia and Murcia, but also for families from the Part Forana, who were fleeing the harshness of the countryside. One of the suburban neighborhoods that was suddenly colonized was Son Gotleu, located in the Llevant district, between Aragó street and La Soledat. Its transformation can be traced in the exhibition Son Gotleu, beyond the headline. The origins of a welcoming neighborhood (1960-1980). Until the second week of June it will be at the neighborhood's health center and then it will move to the Mater center. It is a project by Palma XXI and Arquitectives, coordinated by the historian from Pollença Leyla Dworkin with the support of Caixa Colonya and Fundació Iniciatives del Mediterrani.

From his house in Bunyola, at the foot of the Serra d’Alfàbia, Miquel Canals Canyelles Moro, 93 years old, proudly displays a framed photo from his youth. It's no ordinary photo. It shows him with the trophy that in 1956, at the age of 23, accredited him as the best pine cutter in the entire State. At the end of November 2019, local researcher Biel Mateu Batle rescued his story and that of his companions from oblivion. This was during the Mountain Fair he organized in the town, which would later be called the Fira de Santa Catalina.

Citizen struggle has more strength than some believe. The Menorcans know this well, who in 1973, at the end of Francoism, were the first in the Balearic Islands to raise their voices against the destruction of the territory – four years later, in July 1977, in Mallorca, there would be the historic occupation of Dragonera; and in October, in Ibiza, 2,000 people demonstrated with the cry 'Save Ses Salines'. In 1969 Menorca was the last island to embrace mass tourism with the inauguration of Maó airport, which replaced the old aerodrome in Sant Lluís. The historian from Maó, Laura Piris Coll, explains the reasons for this late incorporation into the tourist boom: “Here there was an important structure of its own for footwear and jewelry. The livestock sector was also quite profitable. In addition, the owners were very interested in maintaining family estates for reasons of social prestige. On the other hand, the dictatorship had not invested anything in infrastructure on the island”.

The retired Miquel Ferriol Estrany, 81, has very fond memories of the summers of the late 70s. “It was when TVE began to broadcast the Tour of Spain live and in color. With my father, I would sit in front of the television to watch it after lunch. He was particularly interested in the landscapes. He always told me: ‘I already rode many of these stages when I was young during the war’. It was one of the few occasions when he spoke about the Civil War. Later I learned that he had fought in the Peninsula with a cyclist battalion”.

There are three weeks left until the Manacor Spring Fairs and Festivals and this year the nerves are very noticeable in the 'castellera' group Al·lots de Llevant. One of its members, Joan Llodrà Gayà, 52, assures it: “We hope to be able to raise a good tower to celebrate our thirtieth anniversary. We are among the first 'colles' in the Balearic Islands. We were born in 1996, the same year as Castellers de Mallorca, from Palma. We have been rehearsing for months. Our highest construction has been a four of eight, meaning eight floors with four people on each floor. We have only been able to raise it three times in our history. We almost always do seven floors”.

Llucmajor still preserves vestiges of rural Mallorca. Four times a year, a flock of 100 sheep crosses the town center towards a farm on the old Cala Pi road, nine kilometers away. They do so under the watchful eye of Miquel Tomàs Garau, Pastoret, 75 years old, and his dog. “Everyone takes photos of me,” he says with a smile. “It’s something that catches the eye. When the grass runs out on my farm, I take them there.” The Llucmajorer is one of the last old-fashioned shepherds practicing transhumance, an activity that consists of the seasonal movement of livestock in search of better pastures. Traditionally, sheep flocks from the large estates spent the winter in the Migjorn plains of the island and the summer in the mountains. On the roads, there used to be cisterns, reservoirs, and ponds that allowed animals and shepherds to drink.