10 I waltzed through meticulously landscaped and manicured gardens, which I knew because someone had drawn on the score of Johann Strauss II that the piano teacher had taught me to play for a regional competition for young performers. I smelled the perfume of more than two hundred species of roses at once, and I marveled at the buzzing of bees and the whirring of hoverflies, and how the score ofThe Blue Danube I had captured that rhythm; until I had to take the guidebook out of my backpack and investigate where such a fabulous amount of pollinating fauna came from.

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