Flamingo, a port city story: “If we don’t prioritize the Mallorcan customer, in the end we will lose those who have helped us all our lives.”

PortocristoDescending the Blau de Portocristo coast (officially Bordils Street), a steep slope on the seafront leading to the town beach and next to a small area of ​​wild pine forest, lies Flamingo, the most famous restaurant and a testament to the town's history. A staircase leads first to a small building (a ground floor with a dining room) and then opens onto a simple terrace with spectacular views. A few years ago, just after the pandemic and the subsequent lockdown, the massive influx of tourists threatened its unique character; that of a place created and designed for local customers, which saw foreigners 'colonizing' what it had been intentionally keeping as a culinary haven.

"We're delighted that people who come to the island can enjoy what we have here," Cuadrench (Portocristo, 1978) begins, "but after the pandemic, and with a lot of money saved, tourism skyrocketed to such an extent that the excess demand outpaced the actual supply." "It's true that agritourism and vacation rentals have given us an incredible boost, but it reached a point, about three years ago, where demand was so high that the volume of foreign visitors was swallowing up the local clientele."

The solution, he went, was as logical as it was unusual for most Balearic restaurants: to implement a reservation quota that prioritized Mallorcan customers, "who are the ones who have always supported small businesses and small restaurants like ours. It's a feeling of wanting to stand together with the community." "The problem was that tourists were already shouting three or four days in advance to request a table, and of course, we were filling up our shifts with foreign customers; which meant that, as a consequence, the locals no longer had the option of going out to eat here. And that bothered us."

Cuadrench, who has continued the Flamingo's aesthetic and culinary traditions, reflects: "We must also bear in mind that eating out for lunch or dinner is now a luxury due to the cost of living, which forces you to cut back on extras elsewhere if you want to go out on a weekend or during the week. But when they decide to come, we must make sure they can find a table."

More than half

"We made the decision to reserve between 50 and 60% of our tables for Mallorcan customers, especially during the summer months, which is when this problem is most evident." The manager and chef of Blau's coastal location has no doubt: "We owe a lot to the people here; it's a constant source of gratitude, because they were there for us during the difficult times of lockdown and the months that followed. We have to know how to adapt to the circumstances to preserve what we have," he says, sitting on one of the most beautiful terraces on the east coast.

However, despite the fame of its views shared on social media, the cuisine hasn't changed in the almost four decades that the Cuadrench family has been running the establishment. "Here we have a clear idea of ​​what we know how to do. It's basic cooking, in the sense that we grill meat and fish, squid, pan-fried dishes… but always using quality ingredients and products, always whole cuts. It's also true that we're not known for modern techniques, but we also don't want to lose the character of a terrace that does what it does best. Flamingo," he concludes with a touch of humility.

The most unique signage

The signs advertising some of Flamingo's specialties—dishes, pizzas, or desserts—are well-known among locals and those from Manacor who spend their summers on the coast. Signs of chefs, Disney characters, the Marx Brothers, octopuses, and flamingos all bear the restaurant's name and might "sell" you anything from sangria to a giant cup of cream with strawberries. All painted in bright colors, they're generally endearing and have been photographed thousands of times by customers and curious passersby.

"They're a tribute to my father, Pepe the BanditHe's a well-known figure in Portocristo and previously worked at Tànit and Saboga before taking over Flamingo in 1991 with a partner. He paints them himself. They're made on wood in a very artisanal way. Now they're very popular.vintageBut in the 1980s they were very characteristic of the Mallorcan coast. In fact, he got the idea from seaside bars and restaurants like those in Cala Millor, Calas de Mallorca, and La Coma,” he recalls. “People might think it’s outdated, but for us it’s a cultural legacy, a bit like a museum. It’s true that it’s become a form of advertising and a draw.”

No rush

"We're always open from March 1st until the end of October. We try not to change our prices, and if we do one year, we make sure the increases are minimal. Like I was saying: we want people here to feel comfortable coming back whenever they want, whether for a beer, a coffee, or a pastry, and then leaving early, no matter how busy it is. That's our philosophy, and since it's worked so well for us all these years, we don't want to change it."

Pepe Cuadrench started running Flamingo with another partner for three years, until he took it over in 1994 with his wife, Jutta Berlinger, who is of German origin. The building is rented for several years, "but because it's protected due to its age and location, we can't do much construction, just paint and fix what needs fixing. The upstairs area, the covered dining room, is also used on cold, windy, or rainy days, "although everyone prefers to be outside."

"If the season goes well, it looks very promising, although I don't think it will be as busy as it was three or four years ago. I think we'll return to pre-pandemic normality after the whirlwind." Asked if the local customer base would be enough, Cuadrench says that "I could live off the local people, although tourism is a good complement in the summer. The local customer is the driving force, it always has been, so we have to defend it as much as I'm saying, I'm not exaggerating." Furthermore, it's the most critical thing if you do it wrong or stray from the path; they were the ones who questioned us about whether we only prioritized tourists… they're the ones who give the most constructive criticism, because they're the ones who remain.