At the start of the great route of the Tramuntana mountain range

PalmPuerto de Andratx is now the official starting point of the first stage of the GR 221. It marks the starting point of the Dry Stone Route, which, after nine stages and 150 km, ends at Puerto de Pollença. Last March, the Consell de Mallorca (Majorca Council) presented the signage for a 13-km section between the port and La Trapa. On this route, we propose reaching Puerto de Sant Elm, a place steeped in history and legend, all linked to the Catalan conquest of Mallorca in 1229.

We will explore a small area of the western sector of the Tramuntana mountain range, the dry, spongy marina of the Andratx coastline. A rugged and wild landscape, protected from the threat of urban development, where the human imprint of times past is still visible. This is a not very long or complicated route with few elevation changes. A feast for the eyes and the senses, preparing us for the long and surprising experience of the Tramuntana Mountains, a World Heritage Site.

We depart from Puerto de Andratx, one of the best and most spectacular natural harbors on the island of Mallorca. To get there, you can use public transportation. The TIB bus lines 101, 121, and 122 arrive here (check schedules and availability at tib.org, especially for the return from Sant Elm (L-121). Before leaving the port, we recommend visiting the San Francisco Tower (Calle de Rodríguez Acosta, 9), a former coastal defense tower from the 18th century, now converted into a private home.

The route

[00 min] We start the walk from the bridge over the Saluet torrent, a few meters from the bus stop, at the colársega of Puerto de Andratx, right at the point where we find the first signs of the GR 221. Before starting, a brief note about the place name. A saluet is a confusing and persistent rumor. According to Miquel Àngel Escanelles, from toponimiamallorca.netIn Mallorca we find four places with this name: one is right here; the other is at the end of the Son Verí torrent, in the Arenal de Llucmajor; the third, at the mouth of the Gorg or Torà torrent, in Peguera; and the fourth and most famous, in the bay of Alcúdia, between Son Serra de Marina and the Canova sandbank, mentioned in the fable ofThe Fish Nicholas (Volume XXIV of the Mallorcan Fables) due to its danger.

We follow the promenade towards the Muelle Nou and the sailing club, on the western side of Puerto Andratx. [10 min] We turn right onto Calle de la Aldea Blanca and shortly after, left onto Calle de Cala d'Egos. At the next fork, turn right again, and from here we climb the first hill of the route. [15 min] The paved road makes long, easy loops until we reach the Collado del Vent. If we want to save on asphalt, we can take advantage of the shortcuts, which emerge from the first bends in the road, heavily eroded by mountain bikes. On some of them, we may find some red paint marks. Whether it's due to one wind or the other, we soon reach the first milestone on our journey, the Collado del Vent (163 m). [40 min] Here three paths meet, one is the one we have been following until now, and the other two, just in front of us, to the right – near a double lime kiln – and to the left, towards the sea.

The one on the left, which goes down to Cala d'Egües, is the one currently signposted as GR 221. We follow it for a short stretch, because the signage quickly diverts us to the right along an old cart track that, almost without losing elevation, gives us a bird's-eye view above it. [1 h 00 min] We reach a new fork, where we must turn right, along a steep section that brings us to some old broken ground, the Tancat de Pere Viguet. Further up, [1 h 15 min] we connect with the path that also leaves the Collado del Vent and goes higher. Here we turn left, below Mount Ric (319 m), a first option for reaching the summit if we have plenty of energy. Otherwise, without losing sight of the route, we pass toward Paso Rojo. From there, we have a gentle and easy climb ahead.

We pass some telecommunications towers on the right, and then the signs lead us from the track to a small cliff face, where we find Paso Rojo [1 h 30 min]. This is a beautiful natural overlook; a not-so-fainting high place where the old road that connected Puerto de Andratx and Sant Elm passes. The ferrous minerals present in the rock are what give it the reddish color from which it takes its name. Located at an altitude of 286 metres, between Pintal Rojo (312 m), Monte Gros (309 m) and Monte d'en Ric (312 m), this easy pass offers good views of Cala de Egos, the Palomera Valley, Sant Elm and Dragonera.

Sant Elm Castle

From the Red Pass, we descend to Collet de la Barrera [1 h 45 min]. We leave the variant of the Dry Stone Route (GR 221.1) on the right in the direction of Arracó and continue along the main path towards Sant Elm. The new marked route begins along the Cala en Tió path, although it soon detours towards Puig Gros (209 m), which we do not climb. We simply go around it, leaving it on our right, as we descend to the Pineta path [2 h 15 min], at the foot of Mont Blanc (112 m). This is a very sharp hill that we must go around on its inner slopes to come out in front of Sant Elm Castle [2 h 25 min]. This is a construction used in the past as a lookout tower and refuge from pirate attacks in the 16th and 17th centuries. Initially conceived in the 13th century as a hospital for sailors, its functions were later expanded to include a fortified tower and oratory. Its presence reveals the importance of this space in the maritime control of the area. The natural harbor of Sant Elm, formerly known as La Palomera, was an excellent anchorage, sheltered by Dragonera Island, which protected it from all winds.

Next comes an uncomfortable urban stretch, a forced penance to reach our final objective: Sant Elm beach and the splendid view of the islet of Pantaleu [2 h 35 min]. Together with Media Island and Dragonera Island, the three islands make up the Dragonera Natural Park, created by the Consell de Mallorca in 1995. Located 180 meters from the coast, its presence has significant historical and legendary value. Basically, it reminds us of the arrival of King James I to Mallorca in 1229. Before conquering the island for the Crown of Aragon, legend tells us that this was the first place he set foot. For centuries, a sink was even preserved on the islet where he was said to have sank his horse. And as the fables say, "believing is not a sin!"

@Fita_a_Fita