Cala Saona, where all the possible shades of blue in Formentera come together

PalmThis week we propose a walk along the western seaside slope of Venta del Cabo de Barbaria. According to the description ofEncyclopedia of Ibiza and Formentera (eeif.esCala Saona is the westernmost point of the depression located between La Mirada and Monte de Guillem, the main elevations of the parish of San Francisco Javier. The cove itself is bordered by Punta del Caracol to the west and the area known as La Guaita Vella to the south. By extension, the toponym also refers to a vast inland and coastal area stretching from Punta Rasa (west) to Caló den Trull (north). The origin of the name Saona is rather unclear, and several theories have been proposed, based either on its connection to the verb 'to season' or on the name's similarity to other Mediterranean places. An anthroponymic origin should not be ruled out, given that the surname Saona is documented in Mallorca in 1233.

Not surprisingly, "Cala Saona is the quintessential cove of Formentera. However, it is not the most sheltered port if the winds are from the west or north. The Toro coast and Punta Rasa must protect it from the midday sun. The hostel. On both sides, a gentle slope; it is pleasant to be at that hour, anchored amidst so much silence, when the daring and the muscles still carry the echo of the engine. To stretch one's legs..."The trails of light(Josep Marí Marí, 1991).

The starting point is easy to find. The road to Cala Saona begins at the Cap de Barbaria road, to the south, next to the Es Cap supermarket and restaurant. The road ends behind a monumental hotel, of standard architecture, and several villas and restaurants. There is no public transport during the winter months. Line 5, which connects the port of La Savina and Cala Saona, only operates during peak season.

The route

[00 min] From the end of the Cala Saona road, we access the beach via a west-facing wooden walkway. We cross the sand from right to left, using the lifeguard tower as a landmark. From here, we reach the end of a dirt track that provides access for vehicles and pedestrians to the cove's boat slips [05 min]. It's worth taking a moment to admire these facilities, iconic in the coastal cultural landscape. A safe haven for boats, essential for fishing, and declared a Site of Cultural Interest. Here, we realize that the Cala Saona coastline encompasses all the possible shades of blue found in the Formentera sea.

From here at Punta Zanja [20 min], the shoreline is relatively flat with a gentle slope. We continue walking along the cliff edge, which gradually offers us a better and wider perspective. Slowly but surely, the surroundings transform into a magnificent and exclusive viewpoint from which to contemplate the rest of the coast, from the Torre de la Gaviota (18th century), the westernmost of Formentera's watchtowers, to the southern marina of Ibiza. A truly spectacular sight on a clear day.

Suddenly, we turn our heads, now facing south. From Punta Rasa, we continue to gently gain altitude above the sea towards Cabo Alto. From here on, the coast rises as if emerging from the depths of the sea. [30 min] In this area, precisely, are located a number of scattered chalets. We, using the public right of way, pass by the gambling den. [35 min] After Rincón Alto, the route crosses a series of dry stone walls, some quite low. In other cases, however, they are much bolder constructions that perch on the vertical cliff face. The inland scrubland contrasts sharply with the stark, dry rock face jutting out into the blue sea.

From here, the path veers gently inland, winding through scrubland and junipers bent by the strong winds. Gradually, as we walk and glance around, we spot a white patch breaking the monotony of the landscape. It's the solitary chalet called Es Celacant [1 hr 00 min], perched on the cliff edge near Rincón de la Leña, a coastal spot on the western side of Cape Barbaria. It's time to begin the return journey and move away from the coast.

From the chalet itself, we head east and follow the dirt track – the Caló de la Llenya path – which will lead us to the road – the Can Corbeta path – that leads to the Cap de Barbaria waste management center. Around midday, we observe the modest rise of Mount Guillem, located between the Fusta stream and the Leña cove. Its height above sea level is 107 meters, making it the second highest point on the island of Formentera. During the Spanish Civil War, a square-based military turret was built – which reveals the mountain's position – used to control aircraft. A geodetic vertex is also located there. We leave the coast behind, enter the inland scrubland, and continue along a path hemmed in by cliffs.

The Cala Saona well

[1 hr 25 min] We emerge onto the paved Can Corbeta road, which we join on the left, heading north. About a kilometer further on [1 hr 35 min], we leave the road on the left, where we find route signs, and turn sharply right. From here, we follow dirt tracks, always facing the north wind. [1 hr 50 min] We reach the wide dirt track to Punta Rasa. Fifty meters to the left, we should see a path on the right. We follow it; this is the path that will take us back to the beach at Cala Saona. During the walk, hidden among the vegetation, we will come across an interesting ethnological feature: the Cala Saona well, declared a Site of Cultural Interest. It is a tall, circular structure, built with green masonry and equipped with a set of steps to access the opening. In 16th-century writings, it is mentioned for its importance as a water supply for the pirates who besieged the Formentera coastline between spring and autumn, increasing the danger of the area.

From here, the entrance to the cove should be made from the side, without entering the dune area, or by following any of the paths that, without reaching the sea, lead us back to our starting point [2 h 05 min].

@Fita_a_Fita