Punta Xarracó, a coastline shaped by the blows of wind and sea

PalmOn this route, we explore the surroundings of Punta Xarracó, which rises to an altitude of 73 m. This is a prominent landmark of the inn of the same name, at the northernmost point of the municipality of Sant Joan de Labritja. The inns are territorial organizations specific to the island of Ibiza that have long sought to group and coordinate a traditionally very dispersed population. The inn of Xarracó occupies an area of 622 hectares and is located at the northwestern end of the village of Sant Joan; it is bordered to the east by the inn of Niu dels Corbs and the inn of Xarraca; to the south by the inn of Cas Vidal; to the west by the inn of Benirràs in the village of Sant Miquel de Balansat, and to the north by the sea. Towards the eastern half of the inn, it formed part of the ancient medieval cavalry of Labritja. Later, it was included within the larger inn of Xarraca, until the latter was divided and the inn of Xarracó emerged. It is a rugged, uneven terrain, with no significant elevations, but it also has no notable plains. In this same area, we find the Jaumet Channel and Caves, coastal sites on the eastern slope of Punta Xarracó.

We start the hike at Cala de Xarraca, a must-visit destination for sun and beach tourists, especially those staying around Portinatx. However, during the autumn and winter months, it becomes an ideal spot for hiking, with little surprises for the most daring and nonconformist hikers. Public transport is available to reach the cove; it's line 20A, which connects Vila Real and Portinatx via Sant Llorenç and Sant Joan (you can check schedules and availability on the website). Eivissa.tib.org).

The route

[00 min] We start the walk from the Cala Xarraca parking lot. It's worthwhile, above all, to approach the seashore and enjoy this impressive 'cove of silences'. A privilege of the winter months. We can contemplate the old rafts and their boatyards. Soaked in its tranquil beauty, shaped by the action of the wind and waves, we take the path that begins at the back of the parking area and climbs to our right, oriented towards the interior of the cove. [10 min] One kilometer after our departure, we find a wide dirt track on the right, facing north, where we now continue our route. As soon as we enter this layer, we find an esplanade on the right, next to some carob trees, where you can leave vehicles.

From this point, we walk along one of the main arteries of the Venta de Xarracó. Suddenly, we advance between ancient terraces, now disused, silent witnesses to an agricultural past of intense survival. Further on, we leave a power station and enter the pine forest. The path turns gently to the left until reaching the first crossroads; a sign directs us in the opposite direction to the next fork [25 min]. Here, on the left, we find the start of the descent to Puerto del Canaret. This is one of the most beautiful coves on the island, despite being occupied by a group of villas that occupy the strip of public maritime-terrestrial domain. The descent is rapid; [35 min] we soon find ourselves on the seashore. Formerly known as Cala Xarracó or Canaret de Xarracó, we find ourselves in an unparalleled space. To the north, the islet of Canaret emerges; sheltered from the islet and the reganeta that forms the coast, there remain a group of boatyards, the Reganeta boatyards.

We return to the main route along the same path we descended, and when we reach the next fork on the left, heading north [50 min], we take the path to the left, heading downhill. The track ends in a sort of dead end; we turn west. Near the edge, some dilapidated concrete steps begin, descending to the sea. This is an old fishermen's passage that ends in a wide ridge [1 h 05 min]. Once we've enjoyed the surroundings, we retrace our steps to the previous crossroads [1 h 25 min]. We follow the track to the left, again facing north. We soon come to a new fork; to the left, we find the continuation of our route. However, now we advance a few meters to the right until we reach the geodetic vertex [1 h 45 min], just 73 meters above sea level.

Islet of the Mosque

We resume the route from the last fork. The path descends through rugged terrain that forces us to pay attention. Between a kind of cove garden and small caves, we follow this stretch of coastline that should take us from Levante Point to the Jaumet Cave, with the islet of the Mosque in sight. The path ends at a caló [2 hours 15 minutes], from where a cart track begins on the right. Hidden in the cliff, to the left, lies the aforementioned coval. Access is a bit of a climb, but it's worth it. The panoramic view soaks in everything, a beauty that needs no explanation. "But not only the coves, but also the many crevices and caves found in the eroded slopes and timbas are what lend a constant but changing attraction to the coastal scenery," wrote Archduke Ludwig Salvator to Balearic Islands. The former Pitiusas (1869).

We regain altitude and once again reach the 70-meter mark, following the main path back toward Cala Xarraca. This time, we head south, our gaze fixed on the island's interior. First, along a wide dirt road, and then along a short paved stretch [2 h 40 min], which we take to the left towards the sea. All this, retracing the first steps of our itinerary while, in our minds, we begin to incubate the memories of a walk as intense as it is captivating, brief but powerful. Where modern dirt paths and tracks intertwine with old, dilapidated trails. A real challenge, both for your stride and your gaze, always using all five senses. The route ends at the Cala Xarraca parking lot [2 h 50 min].

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