The Tramuntana mountain range fades before the sea

PalmaApplause was heard as the Sun disappeared over the sea in Banyalbufar. A minute in the dark during which the Moon, shaped like an eyeball, covered the star. "I'm not staying to watch the eclipse, because I don't have my glasses on," a neighbor said goodbye as she crossed the group observing the sky in a small square.

Banyalbufar residents and tourists spread out in different parts of the town from where the astronomical phenomenon could be seen. And beyond: a string of spectators positioned themselves at different points along the road. All reservations were exhausted, and the car parks were full in the Tramuntana mountain range. "We've been managing reservations for three years," explained Marc Sureda, the manager of the Sa Baronia hotel, which had one of the best terraces from which to watch the sunset. One of the owners, Francisco Lluís Sureda, spent hours at the entrance explaining to incessant interested parties that there was no longer any space in the restaurant. Despite constant requests from customers, the owners and workers served the menus first to be able to take a break at 8:30 p.m. and watch the spectacle above the blue and orange horizon.

The neighbors have complained about the overbooking, especially in the parking lots. But as the Government, fearful of collapse and the risk of fires, has applied access restrictions to viewpoints, lighthouses, and beaches, saturation has not reached its peak. There have been crowded images in Sóller. "At 9 am the parking lots were already full," explained Àngel and Maria, a couple who lives in Palma and had to turn back towards this port to meet in Deià, where they asked a police officer where they could best see the eclipse. "There is a viewpoint, but we have the same problem, we don't know where to leave the car," said Àngel.

Civil guards and national police officers, standing since noon under the inclement sun, have turned away any unauthorized vehicle in different areas between Andratx and Valldemossa. In places like the port of Valldemossa, only residents and visitors with reservations in a hotel, bar, or restaurant could descend. "It's unfair that if you have a reservation you can come to see the eclipse, but if not, you can't," considered Alba Torres, a 28-year-old resident of Valldemossa. She was chatting and joking with her family and other neighbors while waiting until dusk. The anecdote of the day, they said, was the mess with the protective glasses. The City Council distributed a batch from a donation, but at the last minute they learned that they were not suitable: "We had others from different brands, but some ran out."

Despite the apparent tranquility, there was tension at the port. A group of bathers shouted at the crew of a yacht that had anchored on a Posidonia meadow: "Get out, get out". Finally, the vessel raised anchor, and from the beach they waved goodbye. There were also some accidents. Two men, who did not know that the logs at the mooring are full of algae, slipped when they got into the water and hit their heads. Police sources regretted that it had not been foreseen that an ambulance would be stationed at this location. They explained that there were few officers in the area (three at three different points), and denounced a lack of "foresight" in the organization of the operation.

Eclipse tourism

The temperature has hovered around 36 degrees. Sitting on a sidewalk in Valldemossa and wiping the sweat from his forehead, Pere summarized in broken Spanish why observing the eclipse was a personal and "philosophical" experience not to be missed: "The Sun will be black, and that is a very strong symbol: the Incas already spoke of it." He came expressly from northern France with his nephew and daughter. In another area of the municipality, Nuestro Nanamoli, an American embroidery artist who settled in the village five months ago, was reflecting in turn. After capturing the phenomenon with photographic equipment, he wanted to gather with his family to sing songs, mantras, and prayers. "The eclipse is an opportunity to think about peace," he assured.

When the Sun hid behind the Moon and the small square of Banyalbufar was plunged into darkness, applause and shouts could be heard coming from the restaurant terrace. But, on the other hand, in this courtyard, most hesitated. "Come on, let's go, help me!" exclaimed a young woman eager to join the celebration. In the end, the rest joined in, and some, when it was safe, dared to look outside. After only a minute, the celestial body reappeared, and the eclipse of the century – which the Incas called "the death of the Sun" – ended.