Applause as the Sun disappears in Banyalbufar

PalmaApplause could be heard as the Sun disappeared over the sea in Banyalbufar. A minute in the dark during which the Moon, shaped like an eyeball, covered the star. "I'm not staying to watch the eclipse, because I don't have my glasses on," said a neighbor who was crossing the group observing the phenomenon in a small square.

Banyalbufar residents and tourists spread out in different parts of the town from where the astronomical phenomenon could be seen. And further afield: a string of spectators positioned themselves at various points along the road. All reservations were sold out, and the car parks full, in the Serra de Tramuntana. "We've been managing reservations for three years," explained Marc Sureda, the manager of the Sa Baronia hotel, which had one of the best terraces from which to watch the sunset. One of the owners, Francisco Lluís Sureda, spent hours at the entrance explaining to incessant interested parties that there was no longer any space in the restaurant. Despite constant requests from customers, the owners and workers served the meals first so they could take a break at 8:30 PM and watch the spectacle over the blue and orange horizon.

The neighbours have complained about the overbooking, especially in the car parks, which were already full by 10 am. However, as the Government, fearing collapse and fire risks, has applied access restrictions to viewpoints, lighthouses, and beaches, saturation has not reached its peak. There were indeed crowded scenes in Sóller. "By 9 am the car parks were already full," explained Àngel and Maria, a couple from Palma who had to turn back towards this port to stay in Deià, where they asked a police officer where they could best see the eclipse. "There is a viewpoint, but we have the same problem, we don't know where to leave the car," said Àngel.

Civil guards and national police officers, standing since midday under the scorching sun, have turned away any unauthorised vehicle in various areas between Andratx and Valldemossa. In places like Port de Valldemossa, only residents of the town and visitors with reservations at a hotel, bar, or restaurant were allowed to descend. "It's unfair that if you have a reservation you can come to see the eclipse, but if you don't, you can't," considered Alba Torres, a 28-year-old from Valldemossa, at the port. She was chatting and joking with her family and other neighbours while waiting until dusk. The anecdote of the day, they recounted, was the mix-up with the protective glasses. The City Council distributed a batch from a donation, but at the last minute they found out they were not suitable: "We had other brands, but some people ran out."

Despite the apparent tranquility, there was tension at the port. A group of bathers shouted at the crew of a yacht that had anchored on a posidonia meadow: "Out, out". Finally, the boat weighed anchor and from the beach they waved goodbye. There were also some accidents. Two men, who did not know that the logs at the mooring were full of algae, slipped when they got into the water and hit their heads. Police sources lamented that it had not been foreseen that an ambulance would remain stationed at this location. They explained that there were few officers in the area (three at three different points), and denounced a lack of "foresight" in the organization of the operation.

Eclipse tourism

Temperatures hovered around 36 degrees. Sitting on a sidewalk in Valldemossa and wiping the sweat from his forehead, Pere summarized in broken Spanish why contemplating the eclipse was a personal and "philosophical" experience not to be missed: "The Sun will be black, and that is a very strong symbol: the Incas already spoke of it." He came expressly from northern France with his nephew and daughter. In another area of the municipality, Nuestro Nanamoli, an American embroidery artist who has lived in the village for five months, reflected in turn. After capturing the phenomenon with photographic equipment, he wanted to gather with his family to sing songs, mantras, and prayers. "The eclipse is an opportunity to think about peace," he assured.

When the Sun hid behind the Moon and the small square of Banyalbufar was plunged into darkness, applause and shouts could be heard coming from the restaurant terrace. But instead, in this courtyard, most hesitated. "Come on, let's go, help me!" exclaimed a young woman eager to join the celebration. In the end, the rest joined in, and some, when it was already safe, dared to look outside. After just one minute, the celestial body reappeared, and the eclipse of the century - which the Incas called "the death of the Sun" - ended.