For Saint John's Day, the pear in the hand

PalmThe pear tree stood discreetly in a corner of the path. It was so hidden among the other trees that we were surprised to be able to enjoy its fruit. Having them so close at hand seemed exotic and out of place in a land like ours, like a coconut palm. On the other hand, when there were St. John's pears in the house, we knew summer was beginning and would pass as soon as the harvest of those sweet little gems we ate whole and in pairs.

Pears are sweet, juicy fruits belonging to the Pyrus genus, within the Rosaceae family, like apples. There appear to be around four thousand species, of which very few are cultivated, divided between those that ripen in summer and those that ripen in the winter months. The DCVB describes nearly 60 different varieties with evocative names such as eggplant pear, dirty pear, August pear, good Christian pear, nun's thigh pear, or snarling pear, among many others. The pear is a sweet, smooth, and refreshing fruit that has been part of the human diet for thousands of years. Native to temperate regions of Europe and Asia, the pear has been cultivated and loved for its tender texture and delicate flavor. It is commonly eaten raw, but is also used in a wide variety of dishes: in jams, candied or macerated in alcohol, or even cooked with wine or spices. In medieval cuisine, pears were a highly prized fruit, often eaten alongside cheese. This custom has been preserved in some places, such as France, where pears are served with Roquefort to soften the flavors of blue cheese.

Making the most of the surplus

In our recipe books, pears, like the vast majority of fruits, are mentioned in the relevant instructions for their preservation. Surplus fruit could not be wasted, so they were almost always preserved by candied fruit in a long process, boiling it in water and clarified sugar, drying it, and then boiling it again until it lost its moisture (Caules Recipe Book. Menorcan Cuisine of the 18th Century, De Receptivo). Other ways of preserving them are in jams (Llabrés Recipe Book, 19th Century), macerated in brandy, or as ratafia (Mallorcan Cuisine, Alcántara Peña, late 19th Century). For this last recipe, the juice is obtained two days after peeling. It is mixed with spirit and vanilla and left to rest for a month, then sugar and the necessary water are added.

San Juan pears are a very popular and beloved variety for us. We can enjoy them for a very short time; they are the earliest variety of all, and perhaps that makes them even more special and prized. They can be eaten whole, with the skin and pits. In the first days of harvest, the bulbs are not very sweet, and you should wait a few days to truly enjoy them. The origin of St. John's pears is not entirely clear. The variety is also called Castells pear, having appeared in Castells de Sant Boi de Llobregat around 1820, from South America. Some maintain that they originate in Mallorca. Archduke Ludwig Salvator called them "Die Balearen" (Balearic Islands) and praised their flavor.

St. John's pears can be preserved or candied, and they are also a very suitable accompaniment to stews such as escaldums, pickled dishes, or as a garnish. For today's recipe, we will make a preserve that will allow us to store and enjoy them for a long time.