Carme Vidal: "We must feminize the Moorish costume in honor of the Patron Saint of Pollença, while respecting the traditions of the Moors and Christians."

PalmSurrounded by threads, needles and fabrics, Carme Vidal (Palma, 1996) has made herhobbyA passion and a career opportunity. While working in a fabric store, she launched her own wedding dress brand with a unique approach: the dresses will be modular—come in pieces and can be combined in various ways—and can be rented; there's no need to buy them. While working on this project, a new business opportunity arose: making dresses for the patron saint of Pollença, the Battle of the Moors and Christians, starring Joan Mas. This new project presents something new that hadn't existed before: feminizing Moorish dresses.

How did this idea come about?

— It all started quite spontaneously. I just wanted to make a Moorish costume for myself and a Moorish one for my partner, but then my brother-in-law saw it and asked for one too. Now, word has spread around town, and people have already told me they want me to make one for next year too.

But really, what does he do?

— I'm currently setting up a company selling rental and modular wedding dresses. The difference compared to other brands is that the dresses will be available for rent, not for purchase. I'll also be making modular dresses, and brides will be able to choose which style they want for each part of the dress and then combine them together. While this project gets underway, I'm also working in a fabric store. The Moorish dresses for the Patron Saint came about unexpectedly, but it's welcome. Perhaps I've opened a new line of business without knowing it or expecting it.

What do you think is the key that has sparked so much interest?

— Before, everyone knew how to sew and make dresses or knew someone who could. There's almost no such thing as a showcase. If people see the dresses I've made and the feminized model I wear, they might want me to make them a new one.

What do you mean by this feminized model?

The evolution of the Patron Saint is a reflection of the evolution of society. Previously, women were always required to dress as Christians; only men could dress as Moors. Now, more and more women are seen dressed as Moors. The problem is that the dresses are made for men and, in some way, they must be feminized, adapted to the female body. The first time I tried on the men's Moorish costume, I looked like a little boy in disguise.

And how did he do it?

— I've made some small changes, which aren't very striking or groundbreaking. To achieve feminization, you need to do some research, thoroughly understand all the traditions and key aspects of this festival. From there, see what changes can be made and, little by little, create the mora costume. The key is to adapt it without losing the essence.

What elements do you think need to be adapted most urgently?

— To begin with, men wear vests without undershirts, and of course, we have to adapt it for women. Then, in my costume, I also changed the hat so I wouldn't have to wear the same turban. The sash can also be changed: maybe for women it's a little too thick and long, but it's all about experimentation. As I've said, what I want is to achieve a slight feminization of the attire, but without losing sight of the essence and always respecting traditions. Now, women dress as Moors, not Moorish.

It was the first Moorish costume I'd ever made. What was the creative process like?

— To create the Moorish costume, I based it on the masculine, its historical and traditional characteristics and elements. I don't want to make a radical change, just small adaptations to make it more suitable for the female body and everyone's taste.

What should a costume be like to play a Moor or a Moorish woman at the Patron Saint's festivities?

— The fabrics should be shiny, and the vest should be patterned. From there, people can do whatever they want. I'm not from Pollença, but my partner is, and he told me the four keys to staying true to tradition, and from there I made the small adaptations.

How much does it cost to make a Moorish costume?

— Not including fabrics, because the price varies depending on the quality, the minimum price would be around 300 euros. It's an exclusive, personalized, and custom-made product. The price then also varies depending on the desired model and decorations. Prices can range from 300 to 1,000 euros.

How long does it take to make one?

The minimum time required to make one is eight hours. After that, it depends on the model and the decorations, but a basic one requires eight hours.