Traditional gastronomy

What is the difference between traditional ensaimadas and those sold to tourists?

This traditional recipe from the gastronomy of the Balearic Islands is the most purchased souvenir by visitors.

The ensaimada, the word of linguistic controversy this week
ARA Balears
03/09/2025
2 min

PalmThe ensaimada is much more than a sweet treat. Over the years, it has become a symbol of the Balearic Islands' identity and, at the same time, a product with a protected geographical indication that has traveled to all corners of the world. But behind its innocent appearance lies an increasingly lively debate: what differentiates a "real" ensaimada, one made following the traditional recipe, from one hastily prepared to satisfy the needs of tourists visiting the archipelago?

Time, an essential ingredient

The key to making a traditional, artisanal ensaimada isn't so much the recipe as the process. The secret isn't just the ingredients (flour, egg, sugar, and butter), but the rest time. An artisanal ensaimada can require up to 12 hours of slow fermentation, while industrial versions reduce this time with rapid fermentation or additives that ultimately offer both a completely different taste and appearance.

An exhibition of copper ensaimadas at the latest edition of Fitur.

Butter and texture

Lard is another point of debate. Master artisans insist that only quality lard guarantees the dough's elasticity and shine. A well-made ensaimada should have a soft, melt-in-the-mouth texture, not a heavy or rubbery one. In the case of these ensaimadas sold at airports and in large franchises, the quality of the lard isn't a concern; in fact, it becomes just another ingredient in an attempt to lower the cost of the final product.

Hand in the mold

Rolling the dough, stretched by hand until it's almost transparent, is a ritual that requires skill and patience. In contrast, many tourist ensaimadas are produced with machinery that sacrifices this delicacy. The result: a more uniform, but also less soulful, dish.

Fillings and excesses

The traditional ensaimada is plain or with angel hair, nowadays there are all kinds: chocolate, cream, even gourmet versionswith exotic ingredients. Although these varieties are popular with visitors and are increasingly common in artisan bakeries, defenders of authenticity warn that the filling is synonymous with covering up defects in the dough.

An identity at stake

At Son Sant Joan Airport, thousands of boxes of vacuum-packed ensaimadas leave every day. They are the best-selling souvenir for tourists visiting the Balearic Islands, but also the most criticized. For this reason, artisans, bakers, and pastry chefs insist on claiming the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) seal as a guarantee of quality, a distinction that tourist ensaimadas lack.

However, the debate generated by the excess of these types of products for tourists is whether they will really end up replacing artisan and traditional products, and whether globalization will, once again, cause the disappearance of part of the culture and history (in this case, gastronomy) of the Balearic Islands.

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