Plan of the Exiles and the Fesa rock, stories and perspectives on the territory

PalmThe Dry Stone Route extends far beyond its main path. The successive GR 221 variants that have been opened and signposted in recent years offer hikers the chance to explore fascinating corners of the Tramuntana mountain range's cultural landscape. This is the case with the itinerary we propose this week. Starting and ending in Banyalbufar, we begin our walk along the historic and much-claimed public path of Rafal, skirt around the estates of S'Arboçar and Son Sanutges, and return via the Correo path. All the while, we are under the watchful gaze of the Planícia plateau, at 941 meters above sea level.

This is the GR 221.3 variant, which allows you to follow the main route between Estellencs and Esporles without having to descend to Banyalbufar. New paths and new perspectives of the Serra de Tramuntana mountains invite us to savor the countless natural and cultural treasures of its landscape. The Plan dels Desterrados (Plain of the Exiles) and the Fesa rock are prime examples, where place names reveal stories and perspectives on the land. We are also accompanied by, on one side, mountain forests, primarily holm oak groves; and on the other, mountain crops, mainly wheat and grapes, and olive groves. If you wish to use public transport, the L-202 Estellencs-Palma and L-131 Santa Ponça-Banyalbufar lines operate from April to October. You will find complete information on timetables and stops on the website. tib.org of the Public Transport Consortium of Mallorca.

The route

[00 min] From the bus stop at the foot of Plaça de la Vila, where we find the Banyalbufar Town Hall and the 17th-century Church of the Nativity of Mary, we set off towards Estellencs. We pass La Baronia, with its imposing defensive tower, on our right and follow a stretch of the Ma-10 without leaving the town. After passing Can Fura, next to the stream of the same name, we reach the Volcadors bend. [05 min] Here, the GR 221 sign appears, directing us towards the coast. We turn left and prepare to tackle a very steep section of the path. A feast for the eyes—the panorama of terraced fields, orchards, vineyards, washing places, and houses is simply spectacular—but it must be said that from the very beginning, it's a real ordeal for our legs.

Just as we leave the asphalt road [20 min], the old path appears. A few meters further on, we cross the Acequia de Dalt irrigation channel. This hydraulic infrastructure carries water from the Vila spring and irrigates the upper part of the valley. At 2,152 meters long, it supplies a total of 40 washing areas. We leave the channel behind and, after a few bends, reach the Rafal barrier [30 min] and a few meters further on, the houses. "The Planícia estate has a very long history that begins in the medieval period. This large estate has been made up of two units, each with its own main house: Planícia and Rafal, the latter also called Rafal de Planícia. While the former was the space for the staff who worked in its fields and forests (generally the lords), and therefore had stately residences, and one of the most important wineries in the area where Malvasia wine was produced. In the 18th century, with the acquisition of Arboçar, a nearby estate with a very large olive grove and also a significant forest area, the estate expanded.Plains. History, heritage and memory(Tomàs Vibot, 2025)

We leave the houses behind and reach an important crossroads [40 min]. Straight ahead, the GR continues towards Estellencs. We turn left, following the signs for GR 221.3 (Esporles). Suddenly, we pass the old Planícia road on our right, as we continue east along a wide dirt track. [55 min] We pass the S'Arboçar gate and enter the area known as the Plain of the Exiles [1 hr 00 min]. The name refers to a plain located to the left of the road, between the Rafal and S'Arboçar estates, where local tradition places a meeting point and trading post for outlaws. The outlaws were people who were outside the law and who found in the mountains and forests of the Serra the best way to evade justice. A little further on, to the right of the same path, a large rock with a prominent cap appears in the middle of the hillside, known as Fesa Rock.

Former mountain holdings

After a long, flat stretch, we find ourselves facing the houses of S'Arboçar, to the right of the path, at the foot of the Mola de Planícia mountain [1 hr 25 min]. The view evokes the classic image of old mountain estates, austere and devoid of ornamentation. In the past, focused on the production of oil and charcoal, the estate was acquired by the Marquises of Campofranco in the 18th century with the intention of expanding their holdings of Rafal and Planícia, creating a vast latifundium. At the beginning of the 20th century, S'Arboçar passed into the hands of Mateu Escarrer Sitjar.

We continue the walk, which now takes us to the Son Sanutges pass. To the right of the path [1 hr 30 min], signs indicate the way to a new section of the old Planícia road. A beautiful and short walk along an old cobbled path will take us to the Post Office path [1 hr 40 min], which we will now follow towards Banyalbufar. After crossing the new Planícia path, we rejoin the asphalt road, which we will follow to the end of the route. [2 hr 00 min] At the Roig stream, we find some steps on the left leading to the Vila spring. A little further down, we have the option of leaving the GR trail and continuing along the Baix irrigation channel path, from the So n'Albertí washhouses to the town below the Peñón neighborhood. Whichever route we choose, our walk ends in the Vila square [2 hr 25 min].

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