Butter and nuts

PalmaThe British presence in Menorca during the 18th century left its mark on many aspects of island life. Contacts with England favored the arrival of new tastes, ingredients, and customs that, over time, were incorporated into the recipe books of Menorcan households. One of the most significant elements of this legacy is butter, which occupies a prominent place in many preparations. In a domestic kitchen where lard played a fundamental role in the making of pastries and sweets, butter offered other possibilities: it provided an unctuous texture, a characteristic aroma, and a particular consistency to the doughs. Its incorporation did not necessarily mean the abandonment of traditional fats, but rather the expansion of a repertoire enriched with new ingredients and techniques.

Family recipe books are valuable witnesses to this transformation. The one from the Salort family (Cocina señorial de Menorca. El recetario de los Salort de Ciutadella 1860-1917, by Bep Al·lès) preserves a collection of recipes that bring us closer to a varied confectionery, with preparations such as the Chester cake, a cheesecake that could be prepared with Chester or Gruyère cheese; the plum cake or English bread, the English sweet, and the chestnut cake. Various recipes for pastries to accompany tea also appear there. A repertoire that speaks to us of a refined cuisine, linked to wealthy households and forms of sociability where sweets played an important role.

Raisins and prunes are other ingredients that refer to this confectionery tradition. Dried fruit provided sweetness, aroma, and texture to the cakes, while also favoring their preservation. Raisins, small and intense, and dried prunes, with a concentrated flavor, were especially suitable for substantial preparations. It is inevitable to think of the plum cake, a characteristic cake of the British tradition that combines a dough enriched with butter, eggs, and sugar with a generous amount of dried fruit. It must be kept in mind, however, that the English term plum (prune) was also used historically to refer to dried fruits such as raisins, so it does not always imply the presence of prunes.

The custom of having tea accompanied by pastries and cakes is another expression of this influence. Tea was not just a drink, but also an occasion to take a break, receive visitors, and converse. Biscuits, small pastries, and other sweet creations became the complement to this domestic custom, which helped shape new ways of sharing time.

Within this confectionery universe, the pudding deserves special attention. The Squella recipe book includes an English-style plum pudding which, according to the instructions, is placed inside a loaf and boiled in water for an hour. This ancient cooking system allows for a gentle and uniform one that favors a moist texture.

Thus, the ingredients and preparations arriving from England did not replace traditional Menorcan confectionery, but rather coexisted with it, enriching its repertoire and expanding its possibilities. Butter, fruit cakes, and tea pastries were incorporated into a gastronomy that maintained its own recipes and ways of doing things. From this coexistence emerged a legacy that reflects the capacity of Menorcan cuisine to assimilate foreign influences without losing its identity.

For today's article, I have versioned the English bread or plum cake from the Salort family. The original recipe only contained raisins, but I have taken advantage of some candied figs and dried plums that I had in the fridge.