'Le cuisinier est là'

PalmThe history of gastronomy cannot be understood without the constant movement of cooks. Long before culinary schools existed, knowledge circulated among those who controlled the kitchen. In the case of royal cooks, it was not surprising that they traveled from one kingdom to another, serving kings, nobles, or high dignitaries. With them traveled not only techniques, but also ingredients, serving styles, and the very essence of a banquet.

European courts of the Middle Ages and the early modern period constantly competed with one another to demonstrate power and refinement. The banquet was a diplomatic and political tool. Hiring a prestigious cook from another territory meant incorporating a fragment of that culture into one's own table. Thus, many cooks became true cultural intermediaries, professionals who, without explicitly intending to, transported knowledge, tastes, and techniques from one place to another.

Papal Kitchens

A good example is that of the Italian chef Bartolomeo Scappi, who in the 16th century worked for several popes in Rome and became a central figure in Renaissance cuisine. His book Opera del arte del cucinare (1570) contains hundreds of recipes and techniques that reflect a cuisine deeply influenced by the international contacts established in the papal kitchens, where cooks from diverse backgrounds worked. Scappi revolutionized the cuisine of his time with new methods and the use of new ingredients brought from America. The career of Guillaume Tirel, known as Tailleventwho served several kings of France in the 14th century. His recipe book Le Viandier It is one of the great texts on medieval European cuisine. The dishes it contains showcase a courtly gastronomy, very similar to that found in other medieval cookbooks such as the Sen Sovi's BookThe Crown of Aragon was also a privileged space for culinary exchange. Its courts maintained constant contact with Italy, Sicily, Naples, and southern France, which is reflected in the gastronomic texts that were produced. One of the most prominent names is Mestre Robert or Rupert de Nola, a cook who worked under King Ferdinand of Naples, author of the Book of cokePublished in 1520. The recipe book includes dishes from Italy, especially Naples, Occitania and also Catalan recipes.

Over the centuries, the center of this gastronomic exchange gradually shifted from royal courts to cities and the bourgeoisie. In the 19th century, capitals like Paris became veritable laboratories of modern gastronomy. Grand restaurants and hotels partially replaced the role previously held by palace kitchens. But it wasn't just the chefs who traveled; their patrons did as well. Aristocrats and members of the upper bourgeoisie visited the most prestigious restaurants and, upon returning home, attempted to recreate that refined cuisine in their own residences. A particularly interesting example of this phenomenon is found in the figure of the Mallorcan banker Joan March Ordinas, who sent his cook, Apolonia Adrover, to the French capital so that she could learn to prepare the finest French dishes. In this way, the cook would master both Mallorcan cuisine and the fare served in emblematic establishments such as Maxim's and La Tour de Plata. Meanwhile, the owners could offer the finest Parisian cuisine from their Mallorcan estate. In this way, the prestige of the house was guaranteed at the table as well.

The knowledge acquired allowed Apol·lònia Adrover to perfect the recipes learned from French restaurants and refine Mallorcan dishes. A good example is this week's recipe, an interpretation of guinea fowl or pharaoh chicken published in the book The kitchen of sa Vall.